This is a free crochet pattern and video tutorial showing how to crochet the Through the Window Afghan – a fun afghan that uses the inset mosaic crochet technique. Don’t let it scare you! It’s comprised of simple single crochet stitches, chains and easy double crochets. 11 sizes included.
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Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, orpurchase a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF on Ravelry by clicking here.
In a hurry? Pin this for later when you have more time.
The colors in my Volume One Afghan Square inspired me to make this afghan.
It’s funny how the vibes change a bit from the square to the afghan just by having the brown colorway, Buff, over top. It’s not what I expected when I set out to make this afghan, but I quite like how it turned out. I finished with a bold border, which gave me the punch I was looking for.
A blanket in my Through the Window series has also been one of the most requested patterns I’ve received since publishing my Through the Window Afghan Square, which also uses Red Heart Super Saver. Now, you can use that square, and make many and sew together for a blanket, or you can work up this afghan with the pattern worked in rows, OR…
… you can pull out the Super Chunky yarn, and make this Super Chunky Through the Window Afghan, which also comes in the same 11 sizes.
The idea of mosaic crochet may intimidate you, but please don’t let it. This stitch pattern is comprised of single crochets and chains with some double crochets to create the overlap. I think a confident beginner could do this.
While my favorite way to work this technique is with a variegated color underneath, and a solid coordinating color on top, it also looks great with a two solids or even just one color.
If you would like to grab afree copy of the PDF for this pattern, make sure to check out thePattern Notessection below.
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Materials:
- 105 (420, 925, 1465, 2110, 3255, 6300, 7720, 10065, 11385, 11830) Yards of Worsted Weight Yarn – I used Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in Buff, Spring Green, Real Teal, Carrot, Cherry Red, Gold, and Bright Yellow
- Body: H8/5mm Crochet Hook – I love this Koi Fish Ergonomic Clay one from SiennasBowtique on Etsy
- Border: G6/4.25mm Crochet Hook
- Tapestry Needle
- Soft Tape Measure if Gauge is Essential
Material Notes:
Use your favorite worsted weight yarn for this afghan! Some great yarn alternatives I recommend are {wools} WeCrochet Swish, Lion Brand Wool Ease, {non-wool} WeCrochet Brava, Bernat Super Value.
My sample is the toddler/child size. The rest of the size yardages are estimated based on my sample and listed as Main Color (color that will be “on top”), Coordinating Color (colored square pattern), Border:
- Newborn Photography Layering Blanket: 45; 30; 30
- Newborn Photography Blanket: 215; 145; 60
- Newborn Blanket: 495; 340; 90
- Lapghan: 695; 485; 285
- Toddler/Child: 1035; 725; 350
- Throw: 1655; 1160; 440
- Twin: 3325; 2345; 630
- Full: 4685; 2305; 730
- Queen: 5445; 3840; 780
- King: 6190; 4365; 830
- CAL King: 6440; 4545; 845
Time Spent:
I worked on the toddler/child size afghan here and there over two months for a total of just under 26 hours.
Measurements with Border Worked into the Back Loop Only:
Quick guide: 0.13″ = 1/8″, 0.25″ = 1/4″, 0.38″ = 3/8″ 0.5″ = 1/2″, 0.63″ = 5/8″, 0.75″ = 3/4″, 0.88″ = 7/8″
- Newborn Photography Layering Blanket: 10.38″ Wide by 10.5″ Tall
- Newborn Photography Blanket: 20.75″ by 20.38″
- Newborn Blanket: 30.13″ by 30.13″
- Lapghan: 35.25″ by 40.38″
- Toddler/Child: 40.5″ by 50.13″
- Throw: 50.88″ by 60.75″
- Twin: 65.5″ by 90″
- Full: 85.38″ by 95.38″
- Queen: 95.75″ by 98″
- King: 108.25″ by 98″
- CAL King: 112.5″ by 98″
The first two sizes are meant to be newborn photography photo props. Typically, the base is the blanket, and then the layering blanket is laid in a different direction on top, and then baby. Sometimes the newborn size is also used in photography.
Gauge (Not Essential):
With H8/5mm Crochet Hook & In Pattern, 16 SC by 16 Rows = 4.13″ or 4 1/8″ Wide x 4″ Tall
Abbreviations (US Terms):
- SC – Single Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
- DC – Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial) – in this inset pattern it’s worked in front of the chains
- MC – Main Color
- CC – Coordinating Color
- BLO – Back Loop Only
- HDC – Half Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
Pattern Notes:
If you wanted to alter the width of the afghan, the chain multiple is 4 + 3. That means the final stitch count must be a multiple of 4, then add 3, and work in pattern.
If you want to alter the height of the afghan, add or subtract rows by 4 – this is the repeat.
In the pattern, I will instruct to example, in Round 5 “DC into R3”. In the photo above, you can see how there is a skipped stitch in white, and two rows of chains above it. You will push those chains to the back, and work the double crochet just into that skipped stitch in white. Shown on my Through the Window Soap Cozy or Small Bag.
I used solid colors for my afghan, but I really love to use this stitch pattern with a variegated yarn as my coordinating color – it is my favorite way to use variegated yarns! It also looks very nice in one solid color with the added texture.
The MC, or Main Color, is going to be the color you start your afghan with, and the color that shows on top as it’s also the same one the double crochets are worked in. The CC, or Coordinating Color, is going to be the color that you add in at the second row, and shows underneath to create the colored squares.
For my afghan, I used Buff as my Main Color. I wanted to incorporate 6 other colors to use as my Coordinating Colors, and to make it work evenly, I ended up working my afghan up to be 218 rows in total with 36 rows in each color section.
If you want to use more than one color as your coordinating color, as I’ve done, then to see how many rows you’ll need to have, you’ll take the total number of rows I’ve listed (using my afghan as an example, 198 for Toddler/Child size), subtract 2 (to take out the first two rows leaving just the repeat section; ie, 196 for Toddler/Child size) and then divide by the number of colors you want to use – I used 6 (ie 32.66… for Toddler/Child size). In this example, you’ll need to work 32.66… rows per repeat section in each of 6 colors. We round this to a number that is divisible by 4 (because that is the number of rows in the repeat) so I can stick with 32 or I can go up to 36. I went up to 36 so my afghan was a little bigger, rather than a little smaller.
To change yarn colors,do so in the last yarn over of the previous row. If needed, see myHow to Change Yarn Colors in Crochettutorial. Drop old color to the back, and carry up the side. When you add your border, it will cover up the carried yarn. This is shown on my Through the Window Scarf.
This is what the back looks like, also shown on my Through the Window Scarf.
Border notes included in the Border section of the pattern.
Through 05/09/23 at 11:59pm EST, you can grab a free copy of the PDF for theThrough the Window Afghan on Ravelryusing code FREECROCHET202306. I earn my income from the number of pageviews my blog sees, so please do not share the code, but instead share the link to this post so others can find it. Thank you!
If you’re viewing this after 05/09/23, you can still get a copy of the PDF on sale 50% offon Ravelryoron Etsyusing code NEWCROCHET202305 until 05/14/23 at 11:59pm EST.
Through the Window Afghan, Video Tutorial:
Through the Window Afghan, Written Pattern:
With H8/5mm Crochet Hook & in MC, chain 31 (71, 107, 119, 139, 179, 235, 311, 351, 399, 415). SC into the 2nd chain, and each across. [30 (70, 106, 118, 138, 178, 234, 310, 350, 398, 414) SC]
R2:Chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st SC, and each SC across. Switch toCC.
R3:InCC, chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st 2 SC, (chain 2, skip the next 2 SC, SC into each of the next 2 SC) 7x (17x, 26x, 29x, 34x, 44x, 58x, 77x, 87x, 99x, 103x).
R4:Chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st 2 SC, (chain 2, SC into each of the next 2 SC) 7x (17x, 26x, 29x, 34x, 44x, 58x, 77x, 87x, 99x, 103x). Switch toMC.
R5:InMC, chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st 2 SC, DC into each of the 2 open stitches from R3, (SC into each of the next 2 SC, DC into each of the next 2 stitches of R3) 7x (17x, 26x, 29x, 34x, 44x, 58x, 77x, 87x, 99x, 103x).
R6:Chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st SC, and each SC across. Switch toCC.
R7 – 34 (78, 122, 154, 198, 246, 378, 402, 414, 414, 414):Repeat Rows 3 – 6.
Border Notes:
I wanted a bold border so I started with one round of the same color I finished with, my main color Buff, and then I worked one round in each of the 6 colors I used as my coordinating colors, and then finished with one more round in Buff. This equals 8 rounds in total. The pattern is written for 3 rounds for the first 3 sizes, and 8 rounds for the remaining sizes. Change colors as desired.
I started out thinking I wanted to do simple rounds of single crochet for my border. After working up a couple (as shown above), I decided I wanted to work into the back loop only, or BLO, for mine instead. I’ll include both instructions. For regular single crochet, the corners will be worked in single crochet, and you’ll join as normal, and for working in the back loop, the corners will be worked in half double crochet to achieve the same height, and you’ll join in the back loop as well to keep it consistent.
With switching colors each round, I’ve fastened off after each round’s join, and reattached in the next chain space. You can do so this way, or continue to switch colors as you have been for the afghan – in the last yarn over of the last stitch. The Border pattern is written to slip stitch over the chain space to begin the next round, but you can also chain 1, and work in pattern over to the chain space instead.
Why switch to a smaller crochet hook? In my experience, a change in tension causes ruffles in the border, especially seen on the sides. My quick fix is to simply go down a hook size. You can also continue with the same hook you’ve been working with, and just block the finished afghan.
Row 1 of Border, Written Pattern – with G6/4.25mm Crochet Hook:
Chain 1, turn. (SC, chain 2, SC) into the 1st stitch to form a corner, SC into each remaining stitch across over to the last stitch, (SC, chain 2, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, evenly SC (that’s 1 stitch per row) down the side of the blanket to the last stitch, (SC, chain 2, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, SC across the opposite side of the foundation chain over to the last stitch, (SC, chain 2, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, evenly SC (that’s 1 stitch per row) up the side of the blanket to the first stitch, then slip stitch join to the 1st SC.
Regular Single Crochet, Written Pattern:
Photo Blankets and Newborn: Slip stitch over to the chain space. Chain 1 without turning, and work in the same manner for 2 more rounds for a total of 3 rounds.
Lapghan, Toddler/Child, Throw, Twin, Full, Queen, King, and CAL King: Slip stitch over to the chain space. Chain 1 without turning, and work in the same manner for 7 more rounds for a total of 8 rounds.
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Single Crochet in Back Loop Only, Written Pattern:
R2: Slip stitch over to the chain 1 space. Chain 1. (HDC, chain 2, HDC) into the 1st chain space to form a corner, in the BLO SC into each remaining stitch across over to the last stitch, (HDC, chain 2, HDC) into the last stitch to form a corner, in the BLO evenly SC (that’s 1 stitch per row) down the side of the blanket to the last stitch, (HDC, chain 2, HDC) into the last stitch to form a corner, in the BLO SC across the opposite side of the foundation chain over to the last stitch, (HDC, chain 2, HDC) into the last stitch to form a corner, in the BLO evenly SC (that’s 1 stitch per row) up the side of the blanket to the first stitch, then slip stitch join in the BLO to the 1st stitch.
Photo Blankets and Newborn: Slip stitch over to the chain space. Chain 1 without turning, and work in the same manner for 1 more round for a total of 3 rounds.
Lapghan, Toddler/Child, Throw, Twin, Full, Queen, King, and CAL King: Slip stitch over to the chain space. Chain 1 without turning, and work in the same manner for 6 more rounds for a total of 8 rounds.
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Please feel free to make and sell your own items made using this pattern, but keep in mind, this written pattern and my photos are protected by copyright. Please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern. DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead so other’s can visit. Making videos providing instructions how to make my projects on any social media platform is also not permitted.
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